Camera 5v?

Show and tell for your homebrew nv projects. DIY 'Stickies' here too.
User avatar
paulham
Posts: 1186
Joined: 09 May 2012, 12:35
Location: Potters Bar, Hertfordshire

Re: Camera 5v?

Post by paulham » 03 Feb 2018, 17:32

Good idea Image

User avatar
paulham
Posts: 1186
Joined: 09 May 2012, 12:35
Location: Potters Bar, Hertfordshire

Re: Camera 5v?

Post by paulham » 03 Feb 2018, 17:32

Trackerman wrote:Anyone interested in a 3d mount for the Foxeer Night Wolf 2 bare PCB onto C mount lens...


Image
Yes please.
What program did you make it on?

Trackerman
Posts: 127
Joined: 30 Oct 2017, 19:22
Location: ireland

Re: Camera 5v?

Post by Trackerman » 03 Feb 2018, 18:38

Designed in AutoCad 123D Design.

I made it available on Thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2780896

Tip, put some rubber pads or spongy/sticky pads between the mount and the case, this will allow small angular adjustments to place the cross hairs in middle of screen by screw pressure adjustment.

cheers
T

Trackerman
Posts: 127
Joined: 30 Oct 2017, 19:22
Location: ireland

Re: Camera 5v?

Post by Trackerman » 03 Feb 2018, 18:43

some bloke wrote:What's the O/D of that adaptor out of curiosity?
OD is 43mm, simply because my scope tube is 44mm.

User avatar
snoopy
Posts: 2605
Joined: 22 Jun 2012, 23:22
Location: NER NER LOL stoke on trent

Re: Camera 5v?

Post by snoopy » 03 Feb 2018, 20:43

paulham wrote:
Good idea Image

how does the three screw bed levaling compair to a 4 screw?
'who is that masked man? its the kemosabby der..the bloody injun tells you every week!'

User avatar
paulham
Posts: 1186
Joined: 09 May 2012, 12:35
Location: Potters Bar, Hertfordshire

Re: Camera 5v?

Post by paulham » 03 Feb 2018, 23:25

snoopy wrote:
paulham wrote:
Good idea Image

how does the three screw bed levaling compair to a 4 screw?
I get it pretty level with the 3 screws then the IR probe does to the rest. on startup I run a macro to home all axis then probe 5 points to work out how level the bed is then compensate. Works good!

User avatar
snoopy
Posts: 2605
Joined: 22 Jun 2012, 23:22
Location: NER NER LOL stoke on trent

Re: Camera 5v?

Post by snoopy » 04 Feb 2018, 00:11

paulham wrote:
snoopy wrote:
paulham wrote:Good idea Image

how does the three screw bed levaling compair to a 4 screw?
I get it pretty level with the 3 screws then the IR probe does to the rest. on startup I run a macro to home all axis then probe 5 points to work out how level the bed is then compensate. Works good!

i've used the inductive sencors (and one dicky one, that wasnt fun lol) on auto bed levaling...i was some where between like it and eghhh dont like it. seemed to take longer and rthe finish whilste square/plumb looked diferent.
i settled for the faster print, after 2 18 hour projects for a freind i thought...ehhhh feckit! 0.8mm nozzles it is lol.

have you tried the volcano heads and the 0.8 or bigger nozzles? there is a trade of in fine detail though, things like gear cogs have to be at least a certain size or the teeth come out short cropped.
'who is that masked man? its the kemosabby der..the bloody injun tells you every week!'

User avatar
paulham
Posts: 1186
Joined: 09 May 2012, 12:35
Location: Potters Bar, Hertfordshire

Re: Camera 5v?

Post by paulham » 04 Feb 2018, 10:30

snoopy wrote:
paulham wrote:
snoopy wrote:

how does the three screw bed levaling compair to a 4 screw?
I get it pretty level with the 3 screws then the IR probe does to the rest. on startup I run a macro to home all axis then probe 5 points to work out how level the bed is then compensate. Works good!

i've used the inductive sencors (and one dicky one, that wasnt fun lol) on auto bed levaling...i was some where between like it and eghhh dont like it. seemed to take longer and rthe finish whilste square/plumb looked diferent.
i settled for the faster print, after 2 18 hour projects for a freind i thought...ehhhh feckit! 0.8mm nozzles it is lol.

have you tried the volcano heads and the 0.8 or bigger nozzles? there is a trade of in fine detail though, things like gear cogs have to be at least a certain size or the teeth come out short cropped.

this is what I have seems to work good, I think it only works on my model of printer, (reprap ormerod)
https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/orm ... -board-v2/

Always used a 0.5 nozzle. I dont print large stuff because i always have an issues, normally filament clogging which stops it extruding.

User avatar
snoopy
Posts: 2605
Joined: 22 Jun 2012, 23:22
Location: NER NER LOL stoke on trent

Re: Camera 5v?

Post by snoopy » 04 Feb 2018, 14:39

paulham wrote:
snoopy wrote:
paulham wrote:
I get it pretty level with the 3 screws then the IR probe does to the rest. on startup I run a macro to home all axis then probe 5 points to work out how level the bed is then compensate. Works good!

i've used the inductive sencors (and one dicky one, that wasnt fun lol) on auto bed levaling...i was some where between like it and eghhh dont like it. seemed to take longer and rthe finish whilste square/plumb looked diferent.
i settled for the faster print, after 2 18 hour projects for a freind i thought...ehhhh feckit! 0.8mm nozzles it is lol.

have you tried the volcano heads and the 0.8 or bigger nozzles? there is a trade of in fine detail though, things like gear cogs have to be at least a certain size or the teeth come out short cropped.

this is what I have seems to work good, I think it only works on my model of printer, (reprap ormerod)
https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/orm ... -board-v2/

Always used a 0.5 nozzle. I dont print large stuff because i always have an issues, normally filament clogging which stops it extruding.
yes i have the clogging problem on new bits, usualy after some faffing about it's no longer an issue. (polishing all the internal surfaces helps a lot). the settings have to be right to. the other problem is on the first layer if its too fast theres too much exstrution along the bed and it contracts all at once and 'falls' off..so the first layers quite slow.(a lot slower)

think we've hijacked the thread a bit..sorry guys lol.
'who is that masked man? its the kemosabby der..the bloody injun tells you every week!'

Trackerman
Posts: 127
Joined: 30 Oct 2017, 19:22
Location: ireland

Re: Camera 5v?

Post by Trackerman » 04 Feb 2018, 19:46

Trackerman wrote:Ok... so best settings on my scope for the Foxeer Night Wolf v2 are as follows... (you may need to tweek these depending on your scope and IR source).

Exposure:
....Auto Shutter
....Brightness = 200
....DWDR On = level set to 063 (max)
Backlight = OFF (This is where BLC normally lives when Smart IR is disabled)
Day/Night
....Burst- doesn't matter
....IR SMART = ON
........Gain 000 (this determines how much gain is used when strong IR light is detected)
........Height 009
........Width 010
........left/Right 002
........Top/Bottom 003
....IR level = High
Special
....Image adjust
.......Contrast = 112
.......Sharpness 031 (max)
.......Display = CRT

I'm not saying these are the very best settings, but the best I can get so far using my setup, 'your mileage may vary'.
I noticed the Smart IR can get overloaded by really bright IR light, when this happens it flips out and goes to full gain i.e. almost blinds you.
To stop this, reduce the Exposure : Brightness down a bit more until Smart IR behaves itself, these seems to be a balance point here.

I found Smart IR was better than BLC at moderating bright light. Both act to cut gain when excessive light hits the masked ares, but Smart IR seemed to be better in my tests.

My rig is a standard 67mm IR with factory Pill, focused to give a fairly tight spot and at max power setting.
Scope is a Nikon Prostaff Rimfire x3 to x9, 43mm (p.s. Not great for NV, it has no side focus and dims a lot at full zoom).
Lens is a 25mm f1.8 (I prefer this to 16mm as compensates for the low scope zoom)

Be interested to hear how others get on with these settings.

I was clearly able to see trees 400m away when on low zoom, these got darker at full zoom but I was still able to see details.
And then I could pan over to a nearby building (50m) and the SMART IR stepped in and reduced the gain to give a very clear, high contrast image.

Cheers
Tracker.
Folks,
I found these settings to be a bit 'strong' shall we say, my camera sometimes went into overload (white out) and didn't switch back until it was shown a fairly dark subject, i.e. the night sky.

Below are better settings I have been using now, these don't cause any white-out overload and appear stable.

Note: BLC and Smart IR appear to be very similar in function. I found either one works well to stop white-out occurring. I have given settings for both below.
Key values are shown with an asterix *, these should be the ones you play with first on your rig.

Exposure:
....Auto Shutter
....Brightness = 85 *
....DWDR On = level set to 050
Backlight = BLC
Area 1 = on
Area 2 = off
........Gain 087*
........Height 006
........Width 004
........left/Right 005
........Top/Bottom 004
Day/Night
....Burst- doesn't seem to matter
....IR SMART = OFF (but if you use it these are the settings I found to be good) when turned ON the BLC function is disabled.
........Gain 050*
........Height 006
........Width 006
........left/Right 004
........Top/Bottom 006
....IR level = High
Special
....Image adjust
.......Contrast = 160*
.......Sharpness 031 (max)
.......Display = CRT


Cheers
Tracker

Post Reply