New Pard007A Oled 12mm

[Firesam]

Im in the same camp as @blueroll on this one.

Out with the brand new 007A last night behind a Delta Ti 56, looking at a gate in hedge approx 100 yds at 8x mag...... tunnelled image, grainy image with noise on screen on IR1, slight improvement on IR2, and IR3 shows no improvement over IR2, but worst of all is the lag, its awful.
I wouldn't expect to have to use additional IR at 100yds to get a good picture.

The firmware update for this can't come soon enough, although I'm closer to the point now of sacking off all this constant faffing and updating, and going to the 'dark side'..... tubed.

[phoenix]

Settle down dear, settle down!!!!
The tunnelled image is more likely caused by exactly where you have the 007 mounted on your scope.
Slacken the clamp screws and move the clamp as far back as possible so that the distance between the PARD and the ocular of your scope is as long as possible consistent with the PARD being securely attached to the scope.
If you do that, you should be able to get the scope magnification higher before it starts to tunnel
I did this to a friends Delta Ti 56 last week because he was having exactly the same problem with his old model PARD, and I've had to do it on an Athlon Scope with an old PARD
It's unlikely you'll get rid of the tunnelling at maximum magnification - but that's down to the eye relief of the scope and the length of the PARD clamp
As for the lag, go into the menu and play with the EV settings. Increasing the value will reduce the lag, but make the picture more grainy.
Finally, remove the diffuser from the IR and its usable range should increase significantly (at the expense of a darker area in the centre of the illuminated area)
The only real issue I have with the new PARDs is the fish eye effect you get if your eye is not close enough to the display.

Cheers

Bruce

[Firesam]

Cheers Bruce, I've had a coffee now.

Will have a play with the EV tonight, its currently set to 0 and very 'laggy' and moderately 'grainy' using IR3 at 100 yds. Will see if i can improve things with the BSDE tonight.
Fish eye, i mostly relieved last night by turning the rubber boot back on itself.

I am slightly concerned that there is no appreciable difference between IR2 and IR3, although only your test rig would clarify that. I will touch base with Ian who supplied to see if he has any ideas, and for an update on the update!

Cheers
Dave

[phoenix]

The're not much difference between IR2 and IR3 on any of the PARDs.
The big difference is between IR1 and IR2
I'm pretty sure that removing the diffuser from the IR will give you the image quality and range you want.
It's pretty easy to do:
Unscrew the lock ring that holds the lens in place and the lens should then drop out.
Unscrew the black ring that surrounds the emitter and the diffuser will fall out.
It's a piece of frosted plastic about 2mm x2mm so it's easy to miss it.
Screw the black ring back in place, put the lens back in and screw the lock ting in place and your're good to go.
A pal of mine got a new 008LRF last week and I checked it out with my laser power meter
With the diffuser fitted, power set at IR3 and with the focus at its tightest, the emitted power was 177mW
With the diffuser removed, but everything else the same, the emitted power went up to over 840mW
I'd leave the EV at 0 until you tried it without the diffuser

Cheers

Bruce

[some bloke]

Dunno if it helps but its quite common to not observe the power differences unless checking them at extended ranges.

The main thing to look for is that the light penetrates further rather than appear brighter.