Is anyone interested in making himself a nice rifle rest ?
It is good for shooting in, and to shoot from, or sit the rifle on.
Stable, easy to adjust, fit most rifles.
I'll upload the plastic parts and you can have someone near you print them,
As well as a list of the parts needed. Very basic.
DIY Rifle Rest
DIY Rifle Rest
Regards
Fanie
Fanie
Re: DIY Rifle Rest
Looking nice, and you can also use it when cleaning the rifle, installing scope etc.!
Re: DIY Rifle Rest
Nice job. Did you print the rifle cradles too?
Re: DIY Rifle Rest
The rifle cradles and the nut wheels are the only printed parts. The frame is 12mm x 25mm x 2mm rectangular tubing.
The long arm is 625mm and the short arm is 310mm long.
The rear M12 bolt is 65mm and the two front M12 bolts are 70mm long.
All three bolts get a 12mm rubber boot to stand on.
The rear but cradle M12 threaded rod is 130mm long.
The front cradle M12 threaded rod is 220mm long.
The nut wheels each consist of 2 x M12 half nuts kept apart by a partition in the plastic.
To assemble the nut wheels you would start one nut on the threaded rod, push the threaded rod in the wheel so the nut sits in it's cavity, press the second nut in it's cavity and turn the threaded rod through both. If it doesn't turn through smoothly, turn the threaded rod out of the second nut, and rotate the nut until the threaded rod turns through both nuts without friction and without pushing one nut up. No washers are used with the nut wheels.
The hinge bolt gets a washer and a nylon or PE washer, then pass through the short arm, another nylon washer, pass through the long arm, another nylon washer, then a steel washer, and secure in place with a M12 nylock nut. You can adjust the stiffness of the two arms swiveling to your liking, just firm is good.
The other end of the short arm gets 2 washers on the bolt, pass through the short arm end, another washer and tighten with a nylock nut. The two washers on top is to level the short arm so the rifle is upright, and not at an angle, assuming the metal and nylon washers are the same thickness.
The long arm end gets a bolt through, a washer and tighten with a nylock nut.
The two rifle cradles are printed with a 12mm hole, so they are turned in on the threaded rod without tapping, about 50mm deep and rotate half a turn back from lock so the cradle can swivel.
The long arm is 625mm and the short arm is 310mm long.
The rear M12 bolt is 65mm and the two front M12 bolts are 70mm long.
All three bolts get a 12mm rubber boot to stand on.
The rear but cradle M12 threaded rod is 130mm long.
The front cradle M12 threaded rod is 220mm long.
The nut wheels each consist of 2 x M12 half nuts kept apart by a partition in the plastic.
To assemble the nut wheels you would start one nut on the threaded rod, push the threaded rod in the wheel so the nut sits in it's cavity, press the second nut in it's cavity and turn the threaded rod through both. If it doesn't turn through smoothly, turn the threaded rod out of the second nut, and rotate the nut until the threaded rod turns through both nuts without friction and without pushing one nut up. No washers are used with the nut wheels.
The hinge bolt gets a washer and a nylon or PE washer, then pass through the short arm, another nylon washer, pass through the long arm, another nylon washer, then a steel washer, and secure in place with a M12 nylock nut. You can adjust the stiffness of the two arms swiveling to your liking, just firm is good.
The other end of the short arm gets 2 washers on the bolt, pass through the short arm end, another washer and tighten with a nylock nut. The two washers on top is to level the short arm so the rifle is upright, and not at an angle, assuming the metal and nylon washers are the same thickness.
The long arm end gets a bolt through, a washer and tighten with a nylock nut.
The two rifle cradles are printed with a 12mm hole, so they are turned in on the threaded rod without tapping, about 50mm deep and rotate half a turn back from lock so the cradle can swivel.
Regards
Fanie
Fanie
Re: DIY Rifle Rest
The rifle cradles print orientation is optimally strong when printed flat, and no support is required.
Now is the question, how do I upload .stl files
Now is the question, how do I upload .stl files
Regards
Fanie
Fanie
Re: DIY Rifle Rest
That's pretty cool and a nice simple design
.stl files? Sorry dude never heard of them
I'm not a computer guy by any stretch of the imagination.
There must be some site that hosts 3D printer files or some such thing?
.stl files? Sorry dude never heard of them
There must be some site that hosts 3D printer files or some such thing?
Re: DIY Rifle Rest
.stl files is the standard format that is used in the 3D printing industry because it supports three dimensional objects.
The .stl file is used by what is called a slicer to create the g-code of every print layer (usually 0.2mm thick). The slicing software usually allows for rotating, spacing, mirroring, multiples of, etc, and then exports a g-code file.
G-code is the standard used for every CNC type machine, and may vary somewhat between types of machines, but the basic g-code is always used.
Not a problem, anyone who want the parts can simply PM me, and I can e-mail the files to them.
If someone wants to customize, I can put his name on it also,
although I can probably just put John on the model since all the English are named John
The .stl file is used by what is called a slicer to create the g-code of every print layer (usually 0.2mm thick). The slicing software usually allows for rotating, spacing, mirroring, multiples of, etc, and then exports a g-code file.
G-code is the standard used for every CNC type machine, and may vary somewhat between types of machines, but the basic g-code is always used.
Not a problem, anyone who want the parts can simply PM me, and I can e-mail the files to them.
If someone wants to customize, I can put his name on it also,
although I can probably just put John on the model since all the English are named John
Regards
Fanie
Fanie
















